MAKING POCKETKNIVES IN SHEFFIELD, 1840 by Bernard Levine, (c)1992 "Knife Lore" #53 [part], National Knife Magazine, December 1992 Frank Puncer of Arizona sent in a 1952 reprint of an article originally published in the Sheffield Mechanics' Exhibition Magazine, September 12, 1840, which describes the sequence of processes involved in making a pocketknife blade in Sheffield at that time. This was generations before power hammers were accepted for use in the English cutlery industry, although French cutlers had begun using water- driven tilt hammers for blade forging back in the previous century. Making Knives "By repeated heatings and hammerings, the steel is drawn into narrow strings of from one to two yards in length, and in that state sent to the blade-maker. "The blade-maker's first operation is to heat the end of one of the strings of steel red hot and to mould or fashion the blade rudely on the anvil with his hammer. He then places it on the bag[?]-iron attached to the anvil, to which is affixed a gauge; and with a stroke of the hammer cuts it off; and so on till he has moulded the number [of blades] required. "He next takes the point of the blade in his tongs, heats the other end, and forms the tang or square end of the blade that serves for the joint. The next process is the smithing, which requires the blade to be heated again, when the maker gives it the proper shape with back and edge; and strikes the nail mark with a punch, set in the grove[?] of his anvil; these processes complete the forging of the blade. "It is now passed into other hands, to be filed and fitted to a pattern-blade, in order to ensure of its being of a proper size and form; after which it is sent to the grinding- wheel, to have the shale [scale] or oxide ground off, which clears the tang ready for the maker's name etc. to be struck; and this is sometimes done while the blade is cold [and still soft], at other times when heated to a warm red. "After the marking, the blade is hardened by heating it red, and immersing it in water. In this state it is too hard for use, and requires tempering. The blade is now rubbed bright on one side with sand-stone, in order that the progress of the tempering might be seen. It is then placed with the back downward on a plate of sheet-iron, which is put on the fire, and the workman very attentively watches the changes of colour in the blade, till they attain to a straw colour approaching a brown, which is the test of the proper degree of temper; he then slacks [slakes] it to arrest further change. "It is again sent to the grinder, to be slightly ground or scorched, as it is technically called; and after that, goes to the setter-in, or knife maker, who fits it by a fitting tang for insertion into the haft. He next dresses, or in other words, smooth files and burnishes the edges of the tang, and afterwards glazes, by a wheel dressed with emery, the flat sides, to clear away the fash raised by dressing. "A round-ended [i.e. round tang] knife is sent to the wheel again, to have the tang polished, which process is as follows: it is glazed on a wheel dressed with emery cake, which is composed of bees'-wax, suet, and flower emery; with this glazer, the polisher erases all the scratches, and gets the tang to a fine bottom. "For the second glazing he rubs a little bees'-wax and soft charcoal on the face of his wheel, and holds a pebble on for a short time, which brings it to the proper face for polishing or giving the last glaze; sometimes it is further polished on another wheel, covered with leather and dressed with crocus (a preparation of the oxide of iron), which gives a rich lustre to the steel. "The blade is again returned to the setter-in, who inserts it into the haft, which he finishes. The haft is then wrapped in paper, to keep it clean; and the knife sent to the wheel to have the blade finished, which is ground on a stone to a thin edge, so as to ply the finger nail when laid to it; it is next taken to be lapped. "The lap is a wheel faced with lead, and dressed with flower emery and sweet oil. This process takes out all the marks left by the grindstone, and produces a smooth surface; it is fined still further after a piece of flint has been held in contact with the face of the lap, while running. "It is now ready for the last polishing, which is similar to that described above,--the wheel is dressed with crocus, and the polisher occasionally dips a piece of wool hat in crocus, and holds it to the wheel; this gives a finishing lustre to the blade. The knife is then returned to the setter-in, or some competent person, to be whetted, which operation completes the pen knife blade, and is generally performed on a Turkey hone." * In fact this description only covers the making and fitting of pen blades. Were it to include other styles of blades, not to mention springs, liners, bolsters, and handle covers of all sorts, such as silver, ivory, tortoise-shell, pearl, stag, wood, and horn, it would have to go on for many more pages. In Levine's Guide to Knives , in my discussion of "reworks" on page 29, I state, "As far as I know, not even the most competent of today's repairmen have either the skill or the equipment to do a good crocus or glaze polish." In case you ever wondered just exactly what I meant by that statement, now you know. Don't forget the sweet oil, the suet, the beeswax, the charcoal, the emery flour, the pebble, the flint, and the piece of wool hat. * http://www.knife-expert.com/